Setup Guide

How to set up your Lightboard studio.

Setting up your Lightboard studio can feel overwhelming. This visual guide walks you through every step: what equipment you need, where to place it, and how to dial in the lighting and camera so only you and your drawings are visible to the camera.

Jump to the steps
A presenter facing the camera through an illuminated Lightboard, mid-sentence beside a set of glowing hand-drawn diagrams
1 The fundamentals

How a Lightboard studio works.

Your studio should let you film videos where only you and your drawings on the board are visible to camera, with no distractions and no clutter behind you.

To pull this off, you'll lean on a bit of camera and lighting trickery: a black backdrop disappears into camera as you darken the room, leaving the Lightboard's edge-lit glow to do the talking.

Once the room is dark and the backdrop is invisible, you've laid the foundation for everything else in this guide.

A Lightboard video being filmed: the presenter writes in glowing neon while the camera screen shows the shot framed through the glass
2 Studio lighting

Keeping the presenter visible.

With the room dark, your camera may struggle to see you. The Lightboard itself is the only real source of light, and it's mostly catching your drawings.

Position a studio light on either side of you, equal distance from the Lightboard. Their only job is to put light on you, the presenter, and not on the board or the backdrop.

Use the barn doors (the black flaps on each light) to focus the beam tightly. A little spill on the glass causes glare; a little spill on the backdrop makes it visible. The barn doors are your friends.

Two studio lights on adjustable tripod stands, positioned to light the presenter from either side of the board
3 Positioning

Position the equipment correctly.

The measurements below are guidelines. Your setup will vary with the camera, the room, and the space you have to work with. We've assumed you're using our specialist equipment.

Lightboard studio layout with measurements: the presenter behind the board, a studio light on each side five feet apart, the backdrop five feet behind, and the camera six feet in front
Recommended measurements
Aerial view of a Lightboard studio: backdrop along the back wall, a studio light angled in from each side, the board centred, and the camera facing it head-on
Aerial view
Side view of a Lightboard studio: the presenter standing between the backdrop and the board, with the camera on a tripod at writing height opposite
Side view
4 Audio capture

Add the audio.

The trick with audio is keeping the presenter clearly captured behind the glass without degrading the signal.

The simplest, cheapest fix is a male-to-female audio extension cable so your microphone can reach the recording device on the other side of the Lightboard.

Tape down or mark every cable run. A studio is a low-light room with a glass panel in the middle, so trip hazards aren't worth the risk.

A clip-on lavalier microphone and its cable resting on a desk beside a laptop, ready to run to the recording device
5 Camera settings

Dial in your recording device.

Most modern cameras compensate for low light by raising ISO, which makes the picture bright but noisy. Instead, lower the brightness manually until everything except you and your drawings disappears. You'll be surprised how dark you can go.

A DSLR held in one hand with its exposure menu open, showing the recording settings used for Lightboard filming

Entry-level DSLR or above

Any entry-level or above DSLR works beautifully for Lightboard videos. Enable noise reduction in the menu and set the video frame rate to 24.

Switch to manual mode and start with the settings on the right, then adjust ISO up or down to taste.

  • Aperture: f/8
  • Shutter speed: 50–100 (do not exceed 100, as it conflicts with the LED frequency)
  • ISO: 800, adjusted as needed for brightness
  • Frame rate: 24fps with noise reduction on
6 Why the glass matters

Why you must use low-iron architectural glass.

Cheaper alternatives (clear-glass and acrylic) are weaker, less transparent, and prone to scratches that trap dirt and old marker residue.

When you reduce camera brightness to hide smudges, those scratches and residue stay visible, while the parts you do want to see (you and your drawings) start to disappear.

Our tempered low-iron glass is durable, scratch-resistant, and far more transparent. More light passes through, drawings glow brighter, and you can take the camera brightness lower without losing the parts that matter.

Side-by-side comparison: low-iron glass keeps the presenter and writing bright and clear, while acrylic glass looks hazy with visible smudges and leftover marker residue
Contact us

Have questions about your setup?

Get in touch and one of our studio experts will help you plan the room, the lights, and the camera settings for your space.